A Cultural Heritage Village- Chettinad
Tamilnadu, India
Antro Brabin
5078721
INTRODUCTION
As many people know the significance of Chettinad palace. Only less proportion of people know about the comprehensive idea of entire Chettinad village. This village is located close to my town (Thirupathur, Tamilnadu). I have been seeing this unique village since my childhood. Now I got a chance to study and improve further in the architectural perspective.
Location
Historical Background
Reason for choosing
Materials used
Survey
Comparing Chettinad king's palace and other buildings (exterior and interior)
Some other residential buildings in Chettinad
Varieties in the column head
Types of parapet walls used
Types of windows
Types of arches
Types of stairs
Influence of other countries
Renovations
Ornamental perspectives
Damages
Interior of Chettinad palace
References
Suggestions
Conclusion
Location
There are plenty of chettinad-style buildings that can be seen across Tamilnadu. My discussion is all about the Chettinad village located under Kanadukathan town, Sivagangai district.
Chettinad is a village located in Sivagangai District. The town originated in the 19th century.
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Who are the residents of Chettinad?
Chettinad is the home of the Nattukottai Chettiars (Nagarathar), a prosperous banking and business community and for high hierarchy, non-Brahmin Vallambar (Vellalar) feudal community with an aristocrat title Nattar - Ambalam. It is also known for its local cuisine, architecture, and religious temples
As far as I know, Chettinad king's palace is familiar and stand out at the top around the South-Indian architecture. But, there are plenty of noteworthy buildings in Chettinad town.
Historical Background
Kaveripoompatinam
The people living in Chettinad are called Chettiyars (caste). They lived in Kaveripoompatinam. Due to natural calamities, they left the place and entered into kanadukathan region in the 19th century. This community people were masters in mathematics and business & accounts. The Natukottai Chettiars belong to a lineage of wealthy traders and financiers who made their fortunes by extending their business to the whole of Southeast Asia, particularly during the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries when they were at the peak of their economic power. Most of the Chettiar's community are even wealthy today as they were friendly with East India Company and against India during the time of Independence.
Reason for choosing
As I made a survey in Chettinad based on their present condition. I found that less than 5% of the buildings are being renovated often. Furthermore, money and the unavailability of materials play a dominant role. Even though the landlord has money, the materials used during construction cannot gettable now.
On the other hand, the Permanent Delegation of India to UNESCO submitted a request (cultural) to bring the Chettinad village under UNESCO Heritage sites in 2014.
I have chosen this village, as I said the village originated in the 19th century so far the village hasn't lost its shape immensely. But if we don't care, the village will turn into remains sooner.
"Time and tide wait for no one"
Materials used for construction
Burma teak
Ceylon satinwood
Italian marble
Dutch ceramic tiles
Cast iron
Stained glass
Bohemian chandelier
Overall survey of Chettinad town
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I divided the buildings into 6 categories based on their conditions.
Good Maintenance
In Chettinad, probably there are 6 to 8 buildings that have been maintained in a good condition. Engineer visits and quality checks have been done frequently. Significantly, the landlords are wealthy. Few of them have been using their buildings for tourism (commercially) and merely people just maintaining them for their remembrance and memory of families.
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Partial Maintenance
The partial Maintenace category holds the second position in Chettinad, there are approximately 13 to 15 buildings that are partially maintained. It seems like the land owners renovate their buildings 20 to 30 years once.
No Maintenance
This is the table topper in the survey list. Around 15 to 20 residential buildings haven't seen any refurbishment in the past 80 to100 years. But most of the buildings have been used by the physical inhabitants. In terms of renovation, money plays a vital role. No maintenance describes the lack of wealth among the landlords.
Abandoned
Due to financial crises and family issues, most of the buildings were left abandoned. In my view, there are 10 to 12 houses that are not in use by humans. Those places have been deteriorating gradually.
Dilapidated
As low as 3 to 5 residential houses had been dilapidated in the Chettinad town. Those buildings have to be maintained as heritage sign, but it has been depreciating day by day.
Derelicts
In the entire town, I found 7 to 9 buildings turned into debris. This is the time to take care of the other categories or else this remains category becomes predominant in near future.
Comparing Chettinad's king palace (right side) and one of the other buildings (left side of the slide) of Chettinad.
It would be easier to understand the differences in the consecutive slides.
Front and back side of Chettinad King's Palace
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Front side and back side of one of the residential buildings
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Comparison of exterior elements
The picture on the top is from the king's palace and the bottom picture is from one of the adjacent buildings. Both were constructed in a similar year with similar designs and architecture. Here money is the discriminating factor.
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I had a chance to speak with one of the landowners, he told me that the renovation work might require 3 to 3.5 million INR. Instead of that he just wants to dismantle the entire building and sell the teak and other valuable materials. He believes that the building materials can bring 10 million at least.
Comparing an interior element
Brilliant micro craft, fortunately it is being positioned in Chettinad king's palace. Therefore, repairing work and furnishing can be done frequently.
On the other hand, it is located in one of the buildings in Chettinad but not in the palace. Even there is no one to bother.
Some of the buildings in the Chettinad
Almost 90% of the buildings in this area were constructed with similar design and architecture and materials used for construction were also remains unchanged. However, exceptional buildings are also there.
The Chettinad buildings are famous for their wide courtyards and cozy marble and teak work.
The materials used for construction and decorative items were shipped from East Asian countries and Europe.
The wood carvings, frescoes and egg-plastering have given the world class recognition to the buildings.
Now or never
Immediate restoration has to be done. It is impossible to give this gigantic scenery to the next generation.
Almost every houses were built with the use of limestone and for the smooth texture egg whites were used.
The materials as well as expertise were brought from the different parts of the world to stand out at the top.
In this architecture, both traditional and European influences are blended together and the outcome is what we are witnessing today.
The architecture was made to display the power and status of the landlords. Apart from the basic elements they have also used doubled colonnades, loggias...
Few people started the renovation work and quitted it before completion due to financial constraints.
This mansion is partially maintained and it has European closed pattern windows and semi-circular arch-shaped windows.
Magnificent structures
All houses were built by the same model and according to 'Vastu shastra' the traditional Indian science of Architecture.
The Chettiyars incorporated various influences and had given an unique style to the Chettinad buildings.
On the top floors, these buildings resemble the western architectures like Gothic windows, stained glass, balustrades, cornices.
To delimit the effect of heat, they have used red oxide which retards the heat effectively.
Finely ground mixture of powdered shell , gallnut and lime were the key materials used to reduce the intensive heat during summer.
Exterior of the house designed with thinnai (for strangers to take rest) and interiors were designed ceremonies, personal use and to organise confindential meetings.
Abandoned
The diety's statue still hasn't lost its silver touch. It would have been nice if routine maintenance had been done.
It seems like this house got the shine of make over in recent decades.
Even though the elements were good still kept stranded for a long time.
The derelicts show the presence of a thickly layered wall structure. If no one cares about the other abandoned and partially maintained buildings, this is the result.
This one-story building looks magnificent. But the central figurine seems missing and the idols at the side are also severely damaged.
This residential building has unique parapet wall design in the entrance. But the renovation is in question.
Renovation matters
To counteract the hot weather they have used lime plasters, terracotta tile roofing, thick walls of bricks, marbles...
Roofs were constructed on slopes to collect rainwater and stored it to use during the summer seasons.
Most of the residential buildings have deity signs in front of their houses. It indicates the people and their religious beliefs are inseparable.
Century past but single piece haven't missed
Even the drainage facilities were outstanding and paved a clear path for  surcharge rain water.
The streets are constructed in north/south axes and the houses are built around an east/west axes to the central courtyard which provides shade, light, coolness and air.
The structure seems like a religious place but due to the advent of new temples in the adjacent side no one needs its presence.
Tangible and intangible assets
By considering the hot and semi arid climatic condition, they had planned to construct palatial houses with good ventilation and sunlight.
The entrance seems simple but the art work and its class is outstanding.
In order to store rainwater, they have used Rainwater harvesting techniques. Those elements are even exist today.
The Chettiyars tangible and intangible heritages are inseperable.
Their palatial buildings were used for various occasions like family celebrations, rituals and functions.
Odd one out!
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This one has some individuality in terms of the projected balcony and the compound walls design.
This is one of the unique buildings inside the Chettinad village. It demonstrates the overseas architecture influences in Chettinad. Actually, it is an identical building.
It indicates not only a single country influence. But also the multinational effects in its appearance.
Ancient car Parking
Several doors for parking cars. It clearly defines that the landowners were in high level in terms of wealth. But no one is there to use it.
The plants have grown inside the buildings and the plastering works are also missing.
It used to be a residential building but it is completely dilapidated and left to deteriorate by nature.
Old but very interesting
The semi circular arch at the entrance of the house was erected to show the standard of living.
This house has marvellous column head, cornice and parapet walls. But haven't seen any kinds of refurbishment in its life time.
In this region striking 'Art Deco' style houses were predominantly built in the 20th century.
Types of column head
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2
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4
5
6
7
8
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Several varieties of Parapet walls
The rich and intricate detailing of the parapets and cornices across every house of Chettinad.
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Different types of windows
Gothic
Chino-Portuguese style
Blind venetian window
Closed window pattern
Gothic type
Gothic type
Closed window pattern
Pointed arch window
Types of Arches
Roman style
2
Semi-circular arch
4
Multifoil Arches
5
6
7
Different
Designs of Stairs
Concrete
Rubble masonry with steel
Brick masonry and concrete
Concrete
Steel and stones
Stones and concrete
Evident for Influence
The statue of British King and Queen shows the deep connection in the time of East India company.
Another British lord in the top of the fantastic ornamental work.
Damaged British officer statue on the another side of the buildings.
The statue portraits the Kings or Queen of the same state or from the other state.
The carving of the Queen and her child wearing Western cultural dresses illustrates the strong connection with Western countries.
On the other side of the same house, the King's idol is standing with a dog.
The sculpture on the top of the buildings might be a solider of the province.
The partially damaged Dinosaur describes the trading were deep rooted even in China.
The figurine holding a sword defines one of the family members might be a solider of the state or province.
Renovations going on
As low as 3 structures have been got recognition in the past six months.
In the finishing stage of renovation, it took more than 6 months for the landlord to make A to Z restoration.
The scaffoldings are set to commence the renovation work on the last face of the structure.
Ornamental Perspective
The path was purposely closed due to some reasons and in addition to this the designs in the facade was astonishing.
The deliberate closure of windows was perfect and creating questions like how they did? and why they closed it?
The out-projected balcony is a sensational idea. Significantly, it didn't lose its strength yet and it is one of my favorite structures in this region
Hidden facts
The markings of the columns increasing its overview look and it seems very simple and attractive.
The cantilever steel balcony has shown a world class level artistic work of our elders.
Individuality
In this facade, 1934 has been inscribed to determine the year of construction.
The first-class stone and wood carvings can be seen throughout the Chettinad region.
A small dome like structure on the top of houses might let the birds to relax and feed water and grains.
It used to be one of the most beautiful carving work but now in critical stage. Likewise, there are more 50 plus idols in this small village.
The four fish sign indicates the King Pandiyan who used to rule this dynasty.
5 to 7 feet height basement to escape from water calamites.
Stone carving in bad shape.
Damages
Here the temporary renovation was made. But it was an insult to an injury. There is no relation between the construction materials used in recent times with the ancient wall.
How many demolished structures is need to grab attention from public?
One of the best minute artistic work I have ever seen.
While considering the renovation, everyone missing a key factor that is memory. People no more want this stuffs in the society.
India is a Hindu religious dominant country. Even though it didn't get any attention yet.
The structure might be in a similar condition for a long while nevertheless the wooden door didn't lose its shape.
One of the finest brickwork column have been left to reduce into debris.
The windows were completely damaged and plastering was eroded from it.
Absolute demolition of building. It can be caused by any reason.
No one is there to care
The entrance arch resembles a significant structure. But the overgrown plants encroached it thoroughly.
These kinds of demolition can be witnessed throughout the Chettinad village.
Complete renovation is required as soon as possible.
No one knows what kind of buildings it is and the purpose of building this structure.
Presumably, the structure might be left dilapidated a decades ago.
Only the basement can be seen now, just originated in the 19th century. Too early to be missing a cultural heritage structures.
It seems like an indication sign. Not only for architectural, but also for renovation.
Lack of usage is terrible to the old structures.
Almost devasted, the people have been seeing this cause but still no response.
The typical brick work left stranded.
The classical arch was insulted badly by their renovation works.
No need for Non-Destructive techniques. Everything can be witnessed directly.
Ultra strong basement are the reason for these structures to be in single piece.
One of the abandoned structures inside Chettinad
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Identical buildings in Chetinad.
Interiors of Chettinad Palace
Every single piece of wood inside the palace is made up of Burma teak. The carving works are very unique and identical to each other.
The teak doors resembles like made yesterday but it has been in use since 1912.
This place of the palace is used to collect rainwater and it is the evident that Rain water harvesting had been practised even in the early 19th century.
Priceless interior view of Chettinad Palace
Entry into the palace has been denied since 2014 due to some reasons. But with proper permission, entries are possible. That's what I did.
Previous renovation history
The French architects Michel Adment and Bernard Dragon have succeeded in restoring a former home of Subramanian Chettiar( one of the buildings of Chettinad), turning it into a boutique hotel called Saratha vilas.
Indirect cause
The business economy was destroyed massively during World War II. Many Chettiar emigrated to Burma, Malaysia, and Sri Lanka for the sake of new business.
Note
Each and every picture furnished in this project is taken by me single-handedly except only one on the 6th slide.
Suggestions
Every Chettinad house is a masterpiece.
Participation of several Non-Government organizations to provide awareness.
Steps need to be taken to make the Chettinad village under the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Educating locals about the significance of this village.
Deploying an international level research team to observe the ancient works.
Avoid the religious and community barriers.
In some cases, this village can be altered into a heritage tourist spot by converting some of the traditional houses into traditional hotels and restaurants.
To Conclude
I conclude that the Chettinad region has been waiting on a tentative list as a mute spectator since the 15th of April 2014. Now the trend has changed many students and research scholars have been striving to bring out the Chettinad village globally. For my part, I hope I have done my contribution. Therefore, I strongly believe that the entire Chettinad village will become one of the UNESCO world heritage sites in near future.
Thankyou
Antro Brabin
5078721
